Real generosity towards the future consists of giving all to what is present.
Albert Camus












Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Dachau Concentration Camp

  I spent a meaningful afternoon at Dachau Concentration Camp, just north of Munich.  I encourage anyone visiting Germany to make the effort to see the camp. Originally, it was a munitions camp that was not permitted to operate after WWI.   It was converted to a large camp to house 7000.  It eventually became one of the 36 labor camps in the German system during the 1930s and 1940s. By Liberation Day, there were 40,000 prisoners living in Dachau!  The first prisoners were those who objected to the Nazi party’s elimination of civil rights for all citizens.   Even Germans were imprisoned or executed if they spoke about the camp.  My tour guide called the present Dachau, “a total lesson on tolerance and democracy.”
      From 1933-1945, there were 33,000 recorded deaths.  It is widely accepted that there were many thousands more . Most of Dachau prisoners were Poles, Hungarians and Frenchmen.  In 1943, when coal was scarce, and the Germans knew the end of the war was near, they left piles and piles of bodies and bones at the back of the camp.  The museum and films show the horrific reality of the camp.
     Listening to our guide describe the inhumane living conditions made me understand just what a “terror camp” was.  Living conditions changed constantly in Dachau:  a 4 AM wake-up routine; a 7PM roll call that could last for hours in all kinds of weather; scraps of food; 12-14 hour work days; “sick parades” to humiliate the dying and deprive people of hope; forced suicides (where guards provided the ropes for hanging); platform beds where 5-6 were forced to sleep together.  Someone even was assigned the job of blowing a whistle several times a night to get everyone to turn over in unison.   Contributing to the constant terror were constant punishments for the slightest offenses - such as a dirty shoelace or a misaligned blanket.
  Sometimes people were dragged from cells at 2AM and shot for no reason.  Many prisoners went crazy.   Women were forced to do the same work as men and if people were seen praying, they were shot.  If 3 people were seen together, they were accused of conspiracy and were also executed.  In the 1940's some barracks housed 2000 prisoners.
     The crematorium is near the back of the camp. The room layout resembles an assembly line and sent chills down my spine.  Pure anguish could be seen in many of the visitor’s faces as we walked the same steps prisoners must have taken.  The crematorium was built because it was more efficient to kill and cremate the dead in Dachau than to transport or bury the dead.  Hooks still hang in the ceiling where bodies were hung before cremation.
     The memorial sculpture in the center of camp, and the duplicate which was erected in Israel, truly signifies the horror prisoners must have felt living in and behind the inescapable barbed wire and concrete walls.  Many actually chose to be electrocuted as their way to escape hell.  The camp today may be a very “sterile version” of the real camp, but it still conveys chilling lessons about the atrocities of a police state.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Assisi

I visited Assisi as an impromptu side trip and I am extremely glad I did. The old town is beautiful and peaceful, even with the crowds.  Much of it dates from   the 12oo’s.  Assisi actually has a lot of Roman influence, and I spent one morning visiting a few Roman ruins and the theological monuments with a fun couple, Pat and Lief, of the U.S. Army.   I was sad that I could not take pictures in two of the basilicas because they truly are magnificent.  While the huge basilicas may seem to contradict St. Francis’ message of simplicity, obedience, poverty, chastity, non-materialism, and peace, the Franciscans and the church offer a wonderful and beautiful testament to his inspirational teachings and beliefs. He gave up a life of prestige and wealth to serve God.  A 13th century historian once wrote, no more exquisite monument to the Lord has been built.”   If you ever visit, be sure to see the St. Mary of the Angels Basilica in the main town of Assisi.  The church is literally built around and over the chapel where Francis once lived and worshiped.  It is an amazing sight inside an equally glorious basilica.  Assisi is also near the region famous for its Deruta pottery which is really  remarkable for its color and detail.


traditional crossbow coompetition
 

Mk at statue of lion eating martyr



outer wall of very well preserved fortress


MK and Pat in front of St. Francis Basilica


humongeous meringues!


Temple Minerva - Roman



San Runfino cathedral

St. Francis before his conversion




San Stefano church - Romanesque-all stone

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Park of Monsters and Lake Bracciano




I have already done 3 short day trips by train.  The sacro mostri, or Park of Monsters, in Bormazo, was constructed by Vicino Orsini during the mid 1500’s.  All the sculptures and monuments are hand-carved from rock and stone.  Most sculptures had latin inscriptions and a local italian helped decipher the one on the ogre.  Paraphrased:  You can learn and see much if you will open your mid and let yourself fly...I enjoyed the shade in the woods during one of our many 90 degree days!  I have also been to a nearby lake twice and it is really gorgeous.  The area is very relaxed and the water is crystal clear.   I have gotten in 2 open water swims already!  I am trying to keep some part of my regular routine, but working out here is a little difficult right now.  I also had the priviledge to meet a woman who has spent the last 5 months restoring the altar and fresco in her local church.

morning mist on Lake Bracciano





struggle between giants


Neptune

ogre




Bomarzo


local castle from 1100 A D


Castello Odescalchi Bracciano


USAC students


MK in castle courtyard



beautiful local church set up for wedding






The Rush of Immersion

It has been 10 days since I arrived in Viterbo, Italy, and I am quickly discovering how studying abroad is way cool and totally about “getting out of your comfort zone.”  I have always loved adventures and exploring, but the total immersion you experience as a non-tourist is immediate:  it’s scary, overwhelming, exciting and exhilarating all at the same time! No stores open on Sundays, limited weekend transportation, no tv, radio, dishwashers, clothes dryers and the streamlined efficiency of everything! I have been so impressed with the USAC (University Study Abroad Consortium) and the way they have transitioned all 50 students from the U.S.. They have given us a lot of independence to get acclimated and yet, are there to answer all our questions and concerns.  I think everyone is very pleased with the housing, we have picked up alot of Italian, and I think everyone is trying to get a handle on the serious “travellust” we are experiencing. 
Very few Italians speak English.  Nor should they.  Which means we are pretty much on our own at the market, in the train station, the bus station etc.  You learn pretty quickly which essential Italian words are necessary for communicating.  We have all made lots of mistakes.  But the Italians seem to like it better if we at least try.  This is a university town inside medieval walls and with historic buildings that date from the 12th century.  And a smile and a “grazie” goes a long way.  And in Europe, we are on European time.  I have hardly looked at my watch except to be sure I am getting to class on time.  In 6 weeks, I have already gone from thinking about what new car I might buy next summer after I give my 2005 Toyota SUV to my son…to thinking about moving to Clifton or downtown, so I can live in Cincinnati without a car.  Go figure!
Our first week of classes was a good introduction to our semester.  We have all jumped right into our language classes:  our Italian professors are great.  It is harder to get into school mode than I thought and my blog is taking up alot of time.  The other students are really helpful  in giving me pointers and video recommendations, so hopefully, I will not disappoint!  It's important to me because it is part of my Gilman scholarship and Taft Endowment scholarship requirements! So, video blogging yet to come! I am taking a heavier load than most students, but I should be ok (va bene).



outing to Lake Bracciano


semi common vehicle and plenty of nice cars too!


Stefano during orientation



MK at one of Viterbo wall entrances




potluck dinner at friends


St Rosa Festival -all weekend party!



100 ft statue carried through Viterbo


Viterbo Duomo - 12th century


french fry pizza


MK's temporary apt till october

 

 

 
St Rosa parade


cars and pedestrians happily together!

nights of dancing and music shows



shu cafe



breakout group 2nd day


I cannot tell you what a rush it is to get on a regional train or bus, knowing only the basics of the schedule, crossing your fingers about station changes and that you're on the correct one,  remembering to validate your ticket, realizing if you get lost, the worst that can happen is you will spend the night in a station, having very few directions or information, spending an exciting day in a whole different region or town and arriving back safely to your new town…Every day is a journey and you go to bed at night with a “Wow, thanks God... I am one of the luckiest and blessed people on the planet and what an awesome, wild ride!”